This was a week long coastal class through Body Boat Blade and was a blast – highly recommended. Our last day we had glass calm conditions which is bad for rock gardening, but was fantastic for exploring the caves at Cape Flattery.
Some shots from Hobuck Beach Resort, Cape Flattery (from the land side), and the shells that the Makah use (we did not remove any from the location)
Alex La Londe showing how it’s done. The caves at Cape Flattery, and Bill Vonnegut once again making me look like a badass through photography.
We did this 72 mile section the first week in August, picking a pretty easy pace except for the last day when we decided to push through, exit a day early and did 18 miles: a personal record for me. We headed southbound, starting at Stevens Pass and ending at Snoqualmie.
When we started out there was some concern about fires – we could see heavy smoke and had heard some reports so we made sure we had a few exit options if the smoke became more than I could handle. But as soon as we crossed over the first pass at Stevens it began to clear.
This was my second longest hiking trip (after my 10 day hike of the Wonderland Trail) and the most days worth of food I’ve ever carried – on the Wonderland we arranged for a resupply every 3-4 day. For this one we started with 7+ days of food, no resupply, and my starting weight was 34lbs.
I bought myself a new tent just for this – a durston. Which is single wall tent that uses your trekking poles in place of its own poles – it weighs only 17oz compared to my 2-man REI quarter dome, which comes in at about 3lbs.
PCT J Section Day 1J section PCT South Day 2PCT J South Day 3PCT J South Day 3Cell service!
Highlights: swimming in alpine lakes many times when it was hot. Snacking on huckleberries for miles and miles. Finding out that the scary water crossing we were warned about was easy. The Kendall Katwalk was not as scary as I worried but the section north of it was.
We were looking for a hike that avoided the snow up the in mountains, so in that sense, this was a failure. There was a good 6 inches of snow at the trailhead up to about a foot at the town site, but the hike was mostly flat and we were able to walk in the footsteps of the few people who went up ahead of us. It was a beautiful day, a pleasant drive, and well worth the trek.
The Pacific Northwest doesn’t get the fall fireworks show that the East can get, but we do mountains much better and also, there are larches. I had never seen them before, but these are deciduous conifers and if you time it right, you can see them in full, bright yellow color up in the mountains. These are all from Cutthroat and Maple Pass in the North Cascades. The yellow trees are larches, the bright red bushes are huckleberries and the haze is the remnant of wildfire smoke.
Back in the fall I took one day to make a loop through the Jemez. This is a favorite day trip of mine and each time I get to see a little something new. This time I took a side road up to see some tunnels through a steep pass that I’d never been out to see before.
Here’s a deep red mud puddle after a rain.
One of my favorite petroglyphs on part of Bandelier.
Back to some France photos. This is something I think I would not have thought to do if I were left to my own devices. We took canoes down the Dordogne valley, past some adorable cute towns and stopped for ice cream along the way.
I mentioned the abandoned ships north of Jetty Island recently and discovered that a friend had never noticed them before. They were sunk to try to divert water in the channel back when ‘they’ were trying to turn the Snohomish south to make Everett a freshwater port. That failed, but the ships remain.
I took these photos 2 years ago when I paddled out to see them with a friend.
In addition to the mushroom cave, we went to 4 other caves during this trip: Lascaux 4 (reproduction), Font-de-Gaume, Chauvet-Pont d’Arc (reproduction) and one more where the kids went spelunking and rappelling (and I did not!).
The ones that I went to are all caves that have famous cave paintings in them. Lascaux is the most famous, but I think the Chauvet-Pont d’Arc paintings may be more beautiful.
The reproductions were interesting. I had some hesitation about going, thinking ‘why would I spend my time going to a fake cave, better to just see the real one and skip the others.’ I’m glad I didn’t do that.
For Lascaux 4 and Pont d’Arc, the process of making the reproductions was just fascinating. They are full size, to-the-millimeter, faithful reproductions of the inside of the cave. To the extent possible the paintings were replicated using original techniques. My favorite bit: they hired a ‘professional nose’ to visit the caves and replicate the SCENT – which is now pumped into the replica, so that it will feel even more like you are in the real thing. No photos are allowed inside the full reproductions (or in Font-de-Gaume – the only original cave I visited) so all of my photos are from the museum at Lascaux.
aurochs, horses and reindeer
yellow horse. See how much he looks like Preswalski’s horse.
closeup of the reindeer
3 aurochs and the yellow horse
This was not the only place, but Lascaux 4 was the first place we encountered armed military guards. They’ve been taking things seriously since the terror attacks.
Horses in Pont d’Arc (from Wikimedia Commons)
In Lascaux 4 the most common animals were aurochs and horses (17,000 years old). Reindeer were the most common food but were not depicted with nearly the same frequency. In Chauvet-Pont d’Arc is by far older than Lascaux, at over 30,000 years old and had good preservation as the entrance to the cave was blocked for tens of thousands of years. Font-de-Gaume has some as old, and is primarily a bison cave. No photos were allowed here. I bought a book, but the photos don’t do it justice. The drawings aren’t in as good condition but in the dimly lit cave, with a light playing over them, much as it must have been with crude lamps when they were drawn, the animals seemed to reveal themselves more clearly.
Common to all the caves: predators were rare and were always ‘hidden’ they were in the shadows, in the cracks, hard to see. Humans were rare and crudely drawn, especially compared to the beauty of the horses and bison.
PS We got lost looking for Pont d’Arc cave and accidentally drove past the actual Pont d’Arc – a natural bridge, and the original cave sight, although we didn’t know it at the time.
Pont d’Arc
PPS We also drove past some signs indicating that the road would be closed for the Tour de France, but I didn’t get a shot of it 🙁
This is a chateau and large garden on a ridge-line above the Dordogne river. Normally open during the day, it sometimes opens in the evening for a candlelit view of the gardens along with music. I would go back in a heartbeat. I’d love to also see it during the day.
As we were about to walk in, the light glowing through a grape arbor caught my eye.
Inside, in addition to musicians, there were ‘fairies’, colorfully lit fountains and these little goblins popping out of the earth. In the daytime there was a mini rope-net course for the kids to play on, but we didn’t have much time there before it became too dark to see.
Fairies
Enchanted pool
Our girls casting some sort of spell.
Earth goblins. I think I need some of these for my yard.
The main word that comes to mind is “ostentatious”. I mean, building a giant, spired, wood-paneled, fake-castle/palace as your summer home (or in this case, hunting lodge) is alway ostentatious, but this one really seemed to do it more.
Just look at it!
From a distance
Getting closer…
Can you see that this is a detail on the roof and it’s still enormous?
It was only used for seven weeks total by the builder (in the 16th Century), in part because it’s completely impractical. It’s too big and open to heat effectively and there was no nearby village to supply food so everything had to be carried in for the 2000 or so guests who would arrive all at once. But it has some really neat features. One of the most famous is the double helix staircase. Two staircases spiral around each other and you can stop at the internal windows and look at your friends going up the opposite stair.
Looking up the center of the staircase
And there are fire-salamanders everywhere, and who is not a fan of fire-salamanders?
Fiery king salamander
And, as usual, the gardens were vast and impressive.
There was an equestrian show at an outdoor pavilion on the grounds that I missed, and I’m a bit sorry I did because it sounded amazing. Next time, I guess?
