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Wonderland Trail – Day 1

White River to Berkeley Camp Aug 8

Back in August I had the chance to check something off my bucket list – I don’t really have a bucket list but this trek was definitely a goal. There are so many epic hikes in Washington and every year I apply for permits to at least a few with the understanding that most of them won’t pan out. This year I won a slot to book an early itinerary on the Wonderland Trail. For those who don’t know, the Wonderland is a 93 mile trail that circumnavigates Mount Rainier. It is not a climbing permit and I did not summit Rainier. Winning the lottery didn’t actually guarantee I could do the whole trail either, at the time I tried to sign up I was only able to book reservations for the ‘northern loop’ but I spoke with my 3 hiking partners and we decided that I would go down to the ranger station the day before and try to switch our permit to a whole loop. This was a bit of a gamble but it paid off! We were able to get all our desired sites plus our final days camp at the coveted “Summerland” campsite and complete the full loop. We spent that night at the drive-up campsite at White River and on the morning of August 8, set out on our journey. Our hiking group was me, my daughter S, a local friend K, and her good hiking buddy from out of state R. My daughter and I shared a tent but the other two each brought their own.

The day started off with a steep uphill from White River to Sunrise, followed by some rolling terrain along the Wonderland, then diverting north onto the “Northern Loop”. For those playing along at home – yes this means we wound up doing more than 93 miles of the regular Wonderland, we did the “super wonderland.” In the meadows below Sunrise we saw our first bear browsing around and minding his own business about 50 feet off the trail.

Stream below Sunrise
Tahoma peeks out
A cloud of butterflies getting a drink
Paintbrush
Lupines
More wildflowers
Getting ready to start on our journey

Bugs were bad at Berkeley. I’m still not sure if some locations were buggier than others, or if some days weather conditions promoted more bugs than others. There were so many wildflowers! I no longer have exact mileage for each day but most days were between 10 and 11 miles, with our shortest day being just under 8 and our longest day being about 12 miles with between 2000 to 3000 feet of elevation gain. This was a shorter day so we’d have an easier one when we set out.

(edit) My actual notes from the trail:
On the trail by 730AM. Up the big hill. Met 3 girls who recognized R from another long distance hike. 2nd Breakfast at Sunrise. Saw a Bear, ground squirrels, a frog, butterflies. Lots of mosquitos and flies. Reached Berkeley @2pm, So many Wildflowers. Passed a creek that went underground.

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Grayscale

I’m thinking a lot about composition and have been watching videos and reading a book written by Ian Roberts (both called “Mastering Composition”). One thing he finds helpful is to make first a quick thumbnail of the overall composition, and then a small 4″x5″ value study in pencil. I’ve already indicated my dislike of pencil so I started trying this in pen. Then I had to (HAD TO I TELL YOU) buy some grayscale markers to fill in big areas and a few white gel pens for highlights.

The result is that I’m finally using up pages in a gray toned sketchbook. Some of these are failures, but what kinds of things fail is also useful information to have. (And by ‘fail’ I mean the sketch doesn’t read – I can’t tell what it is.) Some of them are also copies of famous paintings by Van Gogh or Hopper. I shared some of them for #inktober.

The plan, of course, is that something here will sufficiently inspire me to make a whole oil painting.

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Sketching summer of 2022

I have it in mind that I want to oil paint, that that is my primary medium and that I don’t want to get too invested in watercolor or acrylic because I should focus on one thing at a time. I’ve also realized that I have some trouble with value and composition and I should probably work out those problems in sketches BEFORE I start investing weeks to months of time working on an oil painting. As a result I started doing a lot in my sketchbook. Then I realized that sometimes I need to add color to the sketches to see how the colors will work. This is how I learned that I’m not really a fan of pencil because I don’t feel like I can get a rich enough color without spending too much time on it and I don’t like graphite pencil because it smudges too easily.

Result: I’ve started adding watercolor to my ink sketches to the point where I seem to be making tiny watercolor paintings now. What I like about them is that because I still consider them ‘sketches’ or ‘studies’ I don’t get too hung up about them having flaws. I also don’t really consider them ‘paintings’ in my own head because that would imply that I was studying watercolor technique, which I haven’t really done yet but it may happen by accident. In any case, these feel low stress and I don’t mind sharing them even when they have flaws or are unfinished.

Ian’s house
Ian’s favorite tree
an otter
My friend’s dog

This first one of these is of Ian-from-Canada’s house and we sent it to him along with a gift package as a ‘thank you’ for his hospitality.

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Gulf Islands Adventure – Final Day – We Made It!

After all the wind, this day was flawless. We packed up early enough that we had time to kill on our leisurely way back to the Mayne Island ferry.

Glassy calm
A little rest spot

We reached the ferry dock in plenty of time as well and used the spell of good weather to change and hang some of our stuff out to dry on the fence. I went looking for snacks at the little shop behind the ferry parking and discovered, that, while it did have a little fridge with some drinks and a small selection of snacks, it was mostly an art supply store. So I guess if you came to the island and had a sudden need to make an acrylic painting, you’d be set!

We rolled back onto the ferry and had an uneventful return. We hope to return next year and we have an invitation to stop by and visit Ian if we are in the vicinity!

Drying our stuff
Back on the ferry
Goodbye Gulf Islands
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Gulf Islands Adventure – Day 8 – the second long haul

We left Ian with some reluctance and turned back into the wind – which was of course still blowing. If anything it blew harder today, up to 15 knots, straight into us and we kept trying different sides of the little islands to see if one of them was more in the lee than the other. Nothing really seemed to help. At one point we pulled off for 30 minutes because the wind was just so strong that we were barely making any progress.

Our goal fo the day was to make it all the way across the northeast of Salt Spring Island to Prevost. If we reached Prevost today, we would be back on our original itinerary with only a short hop the next day to catch the ferry. This whole day was something of a slog but it wasn’t really *hard* if that makes sense. I never had the feeling that my strength would give out or that I was exceeding my ability, it was just taking a really long time.

Checking maps in the wind
More wind (photo by Tom F)
Our sign that the wind would end

Late in the afternoon, around 2pm, we got a break in the clouds and a rainbow. This was our signal that the wind was about to end, and shortly after we had sun and calm for our final crossing to the very muddy campsites at Prevost. We just paddled 40 miles in 2 days.

Calm seas by the time we landed
The beach at Prevost
Our final campsite
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Gulf Islands Adventure – Day 7 – behind schedule

Having spent two days up at Nanaimo we now have to change our plan. Either we go on the route as written and return two days late, or we shorten the trip to try to maintain our schedule. We opted for the latter, knowing that we’d have to put in some long days to get back in time. First we packed up our wet gear and headed out toward False Narrows.

Breaking camp after the storm. Photo by Tom F

Our first landing was at Pirates Cove Marine Provincial Park, and while we’d gotten a late start to time the narrows, we were all still feeling pretty good and we knew how much farther we had to go to make our ferry. After consulting each other and some maps, we made the decision to press on, hopefully to return to Wallace Island if we had enough fuel. By which I mean we “crouched over our open hatches shoveling food into our faces like animals” (That’s how A phrased it)

Me – eating most of a summer sausage like a starved coyote. (Photo by Tom F)

Leaving De Courcey Island, the wind was still against us. It had been blowing in our faces for most of the trip and we kept trying to find some shelter by switching from one side of the little islands and then the other, but nothing was going to change the fact that we were mostly going straight into a 10 knot wind. We’d been looking at the forecast and nothing was going to change for a while, so this was just how it would be. We skirted Pylades and now had a long open crossing ahead. We decided there was nothing for it and just started straight into the wind toward Reid.

Some big tankers anchored in the area (Photo by Tom F)
Big crossing

No plan survives, they say, and here’s where we ran into trouble. The crossing took FOREVER. And by the time we finally made it to Reid Island, our first landing spot for a rest, it was already getting dark. We hadn’t planned to stay at Reid, it didn’t have a good camping spot, but we pulled out onto a tiny private beach, checked the maps, and found there was a teeny islet of public land at the south end. We resolved that we would pitch tents on it no matter how bad it was rather than trying to continue after dark. We headed back out. And now as we rounded a point it was clear that both the wind AND the current were against us, that’s why we were making such poor progress. We battled around the corner when this happened:
P: “Uh oh.”
everyone: “what?”
P: “I left my phone on that tiny beach”
T: “A & I are still feeling good. Stay here and we will go back for it.”
They head back around the point. Five minutes later:
P: “Uh oh.”
Me: “What?”
P: “I found my phone.”
We tried to call T & A to let them know, but there was no answer so there was nothing for it – and we both turned back to tell T & A not to spend all their time looking for a phone that wasn’t there.
And that’s when our miracle happened!
When P & I got there, we found A talking to someone new. It was the landowner, Ian, who had a house on the point and had been watching us struggle around in the wind. He’d come down to offer us space in his bunkhouse for the night!

Ian’s beach where we didn’t leave a cellphone
Rounding the point in the wind
Ian’s house
Ian himself, with P & A.

This was such an incredible relief! It was so lucky that he saw us, that we had to turn back and were able to meet him. A kept asking “did we die? Are we dead?” Ian offered showers, beds, and beer/wine while we traded stories that evening.
A thing I learned: If I spend 8 hours bouncing around in a kayak when I get back onto land it still feels like the ground is swaying. If I drink just one glass of wine on top of that I become legless.

Total mileage for the day: 22 miles!

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Gulf Islands Adventure – Days 5 & 6 – The plan changes

We had a late start the next morning because we had to wait for a slack tide at a narrow passage up ahead, but after a leisurely start, things went wrong. We had some wind, but more, we had some trepidation about an upcoming day – twenty miles long with some precise timing and no good bailout points. As we passed the ferry terminal that went from Gabriola Island to Nanaimo, D had the idea that this might be a good place to end the trip. We rafted up to discuss the options and wound up turning northwest, across the bay to Nanaimo. The wind was against us and we had two foot waves on the approximately 3 mile crossing. This was a little rough and it seems that during that crossing, Vincent also started having second thoughts (also his boat was still sinking). Once we’d made it to Nanaimo both opted to board the ferry back to Vancouver. A and P went to help them with logistics while T and I headed over to Newcastle Island to see about camping spots there – we’d already missed our window to head south that day.

Changing the plan. Photo by Tom F

We found camping at the resort but it hadn’t yet fully opened for the season. What this meant in practice was that we pretty much had the run of the place. We set up camp in a big meadow, were told about the white raccoons, and left to explore the hiking paths, millstones and native art. Oh – did I neglect to mention the mysterious post covered with bras in the channel between the island and the mainland? We have no idea what that meant.

The Bra Pole
Millstones
park bench
Standing watch

That night was still and perfect. We went for a night paddle over to Nanaimo and came back through all the boats anchored in the bay. The next day, however, was a storm. We’d about it the day before, saw that there were potentially 30 knot winds predicted and opted to shelter in place rather than risk it.

I have no photos from that next day because it was WET. We took the tiny passenger ferry to Nanaimo, ate at a fancy restaurant and did some sightseeing. More importantly – I found a place to drop of the COVID TEST! Finally getting rid of that albatross meant high-fives all around. We stayed in town as long as possible before returning to our very wet campsite. The camp had wood for sale, but we didn’t think we could get it to light, until I thought to ask if we could use the covered shelter right next to their gift shop. They said they used that space for salmon bakes, but since no one was around to go right ahead. They sold us some damp wood and by using that plus their giant pile of discarded cardboard we made ourselves a pretty decent fire.

We spent the rather cold, wet evening, watching raccoons fight over a box of bagged chips that had been left on the porch, smelling like a trash fire, trying to smoke a little recreational herb that our neighbors at Descanso had given to T, and made a new friend, a young woman from Germany who also appreciated the warmth of the fire.

Our Trash Fire – Photo by Tom F

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Gulf Islands Adventure – Day 4 – Flat Top to Descanso

We said goodbye to the Crown Islets and worked our way through the other Flat Top Islands, heading northwest around Gabriola. This part of the trip hinged on good weather because we were out on the relatively-exposed Straight of Georgia. The weather held and it was bright and sunny for most of the day. There were more seals and sea lions that we saw near a lighthouse. I also tried to call Canadian Public Health and some company called “Purloator” about picking up my Covid test, but didn’t really learn much. I turned my phone to airplane mode for most of the day.

The cliffs here had dark staining that sometimes looked like faces to me.

The main paddling challenge today was that Vincent’s boat seemed to be sinking. It had started earlier, but after he’d paddle for a little while, his boat would get lower and lower, and when we would stop we’d have to pump out the rear hatch.

Vincent H Paddling along Gabriola Island
passing waterfalls (photo by Paul M)

I backed into this slot around a corner so I could hide and surprise Alice and Diana when they came around, but some boat wake interrupted my cunning plan.

so sneaky
Guillemots (photo by Tom F)
Descanso Bay

We reached our campground in Descanso Bay, across from Nanaimo, and, according to our original plan, this would be as far north as we would go. Am I hinting enough that things won’t go to plan? There were two potential beaches to land at. One with a nice beach but a bit of a carry to get to the campsites, and one right next to our campsites, that was full of sinking mud and broken, sharp, oyster shells. I noped out of the oyster-beach and was later joined by everyone else when the tide started to go out and threatened to leave everyone’s boat trapped in the mud. We saw otters here and a pileated woodpecker.

That evening we walked about a mile to town and went to a very fancy pizza restaurant & I bought a mojito because I’m fancy. These wild turkeys were standing in the parking lot when we got out.

Turkeys looking for some lumber
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Interlude

Hilarious stuff my daughter says to me:

This is on the heels of our dinner conversation where my son asked if there was any health reasons to avoid cannibalism and my family responded that 1) humans are full of human diseases and 2) apex predators accumulate toxins. So my daughter helpfully suggested it’d be okay to eat vegetarians. That’s not alarming at all, right?

As for today. She relayed the story about getting a phone call when she was alone at the ice rink so she vaulted over a gate that she never bothered to open when no one could see her. It was security. They could see her on camera and made the call to prank her. Then she talked about hopping over a 7 foot fence so she could weed a (closed) public garden for hours, but the security guard who caught her doing so was the former landscaper for the garden and thought she was an official volunteer until she confessed otherwise.

Then a quick story about the time she almost got a grown man to throw himself face first into the ground because pretending to fall and catching herself in a plank is a trick she’d been practicing.

But the real kicker was just an off comment. She talked about skipping in public and being asked why she was so happy? No real reason, she said she’d just gotten off work. And they said, “wow, work must be awful if you’re so happy to leave.” And her casual, imaginary, reply was “Oh, it’s not bad, but I have to stop eating out of the trash.” This was said in such a deadpan manner. As if ‘stop eating out the trash’ was one of those personal goals she had set for herself in a performance review. Like ‘eating out of the trash’ was just too tempting and while her supervisor had spoken to her about it, she just couldn’t quite resist the temptation yet. I lost it. Her attempts to explain why it was really okay just made it worse.

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Gulf Islands Adventure – Day 3 – Wallace to Flat Top

June 6th – we had some rain overnight but it was dry when we had to pack up. Today our timing mattered because we needed to go through Gabriola Pass near the slack. We were told, and I’ve since seen some video, that currents in the pass can get up to 8 knots and we didn’t want to deal with that in our fully-loaded boats, many of which had gear or wheels strapped to the deck.

After packing and oatmeal for breakfast (I’ve decided that oatmeal is always a good breakfast – it’s quick, it’s warm, and I can put as much dried fruit in it as I want) we were on our way. We set out northwest past the Secretary Islands and along the west side of Reid before making a big crossing, diagonally, to Valdes. This area is full of tankers and container ships waiting for a slot to open at the port in Vancouver. They made me a little nervous as we are very small and they are huge, but they luckily never moved while we were there.

Our lunch spot was a bit north of Blackberry Point and we waited for a while, looking at a Gary Oak to make sure we were hitting the slack, and then we entered the pass. The sandstone cliffs along Valdes were impressive, and we saw many sea stars – which I found encouraging because they had suffered a big die off a few years back.

Sandstone cliffs making us look small
Sandstone formations on Valdes
Purple Sea Star (photo by Tom F)

The pass turned out to be … nothing impressive. We even wondered if it really got as bad as they say, but we took a few minutes to explore the marina and then paddled through, looking for our mysterious islet in the Flat Tops.

Most of the Flat Top Islands are privately owned and off limits, but there are two tiny islets that are open to camping, with NO services. When I first saw them I was highly skeptical that we could even fit 6 tents on them – one was basically a grassy rock with one tree on it. The other didn’t even have a tree. But we did, and once we were settled in I was so glad we had stayed there. It was magical.

We saw many seals and one sea lion as we pulled in.

are we really going to put 6 tents on THAT?
Alice’s method of letting the tide lift the boats to us (photo by Alice V)
The Magic Happens
Sunset from the Flat Top Islands